the arrival on continent was met by clear skies, frigid air, and friendly folk. in the few short hours that i’ve been here i’ve managed to see the new zealand antarctic base, tour mcmurdo (the main u.s. base) extensively, and wander around in a cabin built by the antarctic explorer robert scott over a hundred years ago. walking around base i can see the transantarctic mountain range, the horizon line of ice that eventually gives way to ocean, numerous crosses (erected in days past as memorials) and mt. erebus, an active volcano.

i thought that my wide-eyed-wonder look might be unique, but i was quite enthralled to discover that it is commonplace. almost all of us who are new to this continent can do nothing but smile from ear to ear as we gather in our new surroundings.

the town itself (and mcmurdo base really is a town, summer pop. of 1600 people) is a bizarre conglomeration of structures rising from the rocky ground on wooden stilts. there are vehicles galore crisscossing the base and all move on treads or enormous wheels. i can’t help but think how much fun it would be to hop in some of them and go tearing about on the sea ice. there is also constant air traffic around mcmurdo with helicopters, twin otters (small planes), and LC-130’s continually en route to resupply other bases or field camps. it is truly a bizarre environment, unique to itself in many ways.

all this and i have not yet seen the south pole.

tomorrow morning, if all goes well, i fly inland farther, to begin my stint at 90 degrees south latitude - to wander around at the very bottom of the earth.